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De@ E, E942 R NAF-TAM SML SEWING APPARATUS e sheets-sneu e Filed Aug. 6, 1957 BY iA/EY NAFTAL/ Patented Dec 1, 1942 SEWING APPARATUS Rudolf Naftali, Valentine Naftali and Henry Naftali, New York, N. Y., assignors to American Machine & Foundry Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New Jersey Application, August 6, 1937, Serial No. 157,686

Claims. (Cl. 112-174) This invention relates to sewing apparatus. More particularly, this invention relates to an improved sewing apparatus for joining together a tie lining and a tie fabric by means of a resilient stitch.

One of the objects of our invention is to provide an improved construction of tie sewing apparatus of the character described, provided with improved means for quickly passing a thread longitudinally through a plurality of assembled tie fabrics in a single threading operation.

Another object of our invention is to provide in a tie sewing apparatus of the character described improved means for properly positioning the tie lining with respect to a folded tie vfabric preparatory to sewing.

Still another object of our invention is to provide a tie sewing apparatus of the character described, Which shall comprise a relatively few and simple parts, which shall be relatively inexpensive to manufacture, easy to assemble and extremely simple in operation, which shall bel rugged in construction and at the same time operate with a high degree of eilciency.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly' consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described,

and ofwhich the scope of application will be indicated in the following claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of this invention,

Fig. l is a top plan view of a portion of a tie stitching apparatus embodying our invention;

Fig. 2 is a side elevational view of the apparatus 'illustrated inV Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a development view of a portion of our novel tie positioning device illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially on the line 4 4 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 5-5 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a view taken substantially on the line B-G of Fig. 1;

Fig. '7 is an enlarged detail view, partly sectional, of a portion of the apparatus shown in Fig. 1, and illustrating `astep in the operation of our invention;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially on the line 8-8 of Fig. '7;

Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional View taken substanf tially on the line lli-l0 of Fig. 7;

Figs. 11 and12 are views showing the assembled tie fabrics and illustrating the means provided for inserting the thread through the assembled fabrics in a single operation;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged detail view in section of a portion of the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 14 is a side elevational view of a modified form of guide means for folding the'l tie fabric and positioning the same withvrespect to the tie lining;

Fig. 15 is a crossesectional view taken substantially on the line |5|5 of Fig. 14; and

Figs. 16 and 17 are details, partly sectional, illustrating modified forms of our invention for gathering or drawing together the assembled fabric and lining into folds preparatory to inserting a thread therethrough.

Referring now in detail to the drawings, there is illustrated a tie sewing apparatus constructed in accordance with our invention and designed for the production of neckties comprising a fabric and a lining, in which the fabric is folded longitudinally and superimposed on the lining in definite relationship thereto and to a predetermined line of stitching, said sewing apparatus being designed to quickly sew said assembled fabrics together by a loose or resilient stitch.

The tie stitching apparatus may comprise a main shaft 20 journalled in a bracket 2| (see Figs. 2 and 5), said bracket being in turn mounted on a supporting frame 22. There is also Ajournalled in a portion of the frame 22, a second shaft 23 spaced from the shaft 2li. The shaft 23 has mounted thereon a sprocket wheel 2li for rotationtherewith, and is adapted' to be driven l from the main shaft 20 by means of a second While' the wheel 21 sprocket wheel 25 fixed to the main shaft 20 for rotation therewith-fand a chain 26 interconnecting the said sprocket wheels 24 and 25. There is also mounted" on theshaft 23 for rotation therewith, a wheel member 2l having a series of uniformly spaced teeth 21a circumferentially disposed on the rim thereof. The said teeth 21a of the .wheel 2l are adapted to mesh with a corresponding set of teeth 28a on the rim of a wheel member 28 which is xed to the shaft 28 for rotation therewith, said shaft being journalled in a bracket 30. The wheel 28 is designed' to rotate in the direction of the 'arrow B, (s'ee Fig. 2) is designed to rotate in the opposite direction, as indicated by the arrow A. The shaft 2,8 is caused to rotate whenever the main shaft gis rotated by means of the following mechanism clearly shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 5:

Mounted onthe shaft 20 for rotation therewith is a gear 3| which is adapted to mesh with a. gear 32 mounted on the shaft 33 for rotation therewith, said shaft 33 being spaced from the main shaft 20, and journalied in the bracket 34, said bracket 34 being freely supported by the main shaft 20. Mounted on the shaft 29 for rotation therewith isa sprocket wheel 36. Fixedly mounted on the shaft 33 is a sprocket wheel 31, the 'sprocket wheels 36 and 31 being interconnected by a chain 38. The bracket 34 is so designed as to form part of -a rocker arm 35 which houses the sprocket wheels 36 and 31 and the chain 38 and which also carries at the opposite end from that of the bracket 34, the bracket 30 carrying the shaft 28. The rocker arm 35 is designed to pivot about the main shaft 20 and is adapted to be pivotally moved in the direction of the arrow C, shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings, to separate the wheels 28 and 21 in order to properly position the tie fabric and lining.

It is thus seen from the above described construction that when the rocker arm 35 is disposed in its normal position, as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings; that is, with the wheels 21 and 23 in mesh, and the main shaft 20 is caused to be rotated, the wheel 21 will rotate in the direction of arrow A, by means of the sprocket wheels 24 and 25 and the chain 26. At the same time, the wheel 28 will be caused to rotate in the direction of the arrow B by means of the gears 3| and 32, the sprocket wheels 36 and 31, and the chain 38.

Suitable take-up devices 26a and 38a may be provided to take up the slack in the chains 26 and 3'8. The wheel 28 may be maintained in mesh with the wheel 21, by the weight of the rocker arm 3l, and the bracket 38, or any other suitable known pressure means may be employed. To adjust the depth to which the teeth 21a and 28a intermesh there is provided a set screw 35a attached to the rocker arm 85 and designed to abut the bed plate 15.

The shaft 20 may be driven from any suitable source of power, such as a motor (not shown) through the belt 39 engaging a pulley 4|| which is nxedly mounted on the shaft 20 for rotation therewith. If desired, a hand wheel 4| may be provided, said hand wheel being fixed to the main shaft 20.

In accordance with our invention, the apparatus above described is designated to gather, crimp or draw into folds the tie lining, and folded tie fabric superimposed thereon, said folds being adapted to be pierced by and fed on to a needle, after which a loose thread is inserted through the folds to resiliently stitch the tie fabric and the lining together. To accomplish this we have provided an elongated needle 42, as clearly shown in Figs. 1, 2, '1, and 13, said needle being releasably mounted in a needle bar 43 and adjustably held in position by means of the set 'screw 43a. The needle bar 43 may be fixed to a shaft 44 or which may be integral therewith, as shown, said shaft 44 being journalied in a bracket 45 for reasons which will become apparent as the .description proceeds The shaft 44 is provided with a plurality of spaced circumferential grooves 46 (see Fig. '13) which are designed to receive therein an arm 41aof a pivotally mounted finger member 41 adapted to rotate on a pivot 48 fixed to the bracket and having the arm 41a thereof projecting through an aperture 49 in the top wall of the bracket 45. A spring 50 is provided for normally urging the arm 41a into engagement with one of the grooves 46.

. From the above described construction it is seen that the needle 42 may be adjustably positioned with respect to its longitudinal axial position to accommodate different sizes of needles. The wheels 21 and 28 are provided with circumferential grooves 5| and 52, respectively, (see Figs. 4, 1,

9 and 10) designed to furnish clearance' for the reception of a portion of the needle 42 therein.

A tie fabric F folded on its longitudinal axis is superimposed on a tie lining T in definite relation to a predetermined line of stitching, and is adapted to be fed between the wheels 21 and 23 so as to be gripped thereby, and due to the action of the rotation of the said wheels 21 and 28 in opposite directions and to the arrangement of the meshing teeth 21a and 28a, the tie lining T, and the superimposed fabric Fare gathered or drawn into a plurality of folds 53 which are fed on to the needle 42 by having the needle point so disposed as to pierce through each of the folds, as clearly shown in Fig. '1.

After the whole length of the tie lining and superimposed tie fabric has been crimped or gathered into folds and spitted on the needle 42, the said needle is slidably moved by withdrawing the member 41 from the groove 46 to permit the exim sliding movement or the shaft u a distance sufficient to withdraw the end portion 42a of the needle 42 from within the grooves 5| and 52. The needle 42 carrying the gathered tie fabric and lining is then pivotally swung outwardly to the dotted line Vposition shown in Fig. 1 by pivotally moving the bracket 45 about the pivot 54, said pivot being fixed to a support 45a carrying the bracket 45, and which in turn is mount- 'ed on the frame 22.

In Fig. 11 there is shown the gathered tie fabric and lining after it has been received on the needle 42 and after the needle has been pivotally moved to the dotted line position shown in Fig. 1. A loose thread 55 is then inserted through the eye 56 of the needle 42, after which the assembled tie fabric and lining are pulled oi the needle 42, which action causes the thread 55 to pass through the folds ofthe fabric F and lining T, as clearly shown in Fig. 12 of the drawings. The assembled fabric and lining may then be extended to flatten the folds 53, after which the stitched tie fabric is turned inside out so that the lining T is properly positioned on the inside thereof, to thus provide a necktie in which the tie lining is attached to the fabric by means of a loose or resilient stitch, longitudinally disposedand inserted in one operation.

In the above described operation of our tie sewing apparatus the threading of the eye of the needle may be done by hand, but it is understood that any suitable threading device may'be employed for threading the needle.

To facilitate the feeding of the folded or gathered fabric and lining on to the needle 42, means are provided for simultaneously rotating the needle 42 on its longitudinal axis while the fabrics are being fed thereon. To this end we have provided the following mechanism, illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 6:

Fixed to a bracket 51 is a shaft 58, the axis of which` is parallel to the axis of the shafts 20 and 33. Freely rotatably mounted on the shaft 58 is a gear 59 adapted to mesh with a gear 65 iixed to the shaft 28 for rotation therewith. Also rotatably mounted on the shaft 58 is a disk 66, which may be integral with the gear 59 as shown, and which is adapted to rotate therewith. It is thus seen that when the main shaft 20 is rotated, the disk 86 will be caused to be simultaneously rotated by means of the gears 59 and 65. Mounted on the shaft 44 for rotation therewith is a friction wheel 61 which may be provided with a rubber rim and which is adapted to frictionally engage the flat surface of the disk 66 so that upon rotation of the said disk 86,- the Wheel 81 will be caused to rotate which in turn, will rotate the shaft 44 and the needle bar 43 as well as the needle 42 mounted therein.

To prevent a bunching or congestion of the tie lining and fabric folds 53 on the needle 42 irnmediately after said folds leave the wheels 21 and 28 and to facilitate their advance movement on to the needle 42, there may be provided a pair of rollers 60 and BI (see Figs. 1, 2, 6 and '1) which are adapted to frictionally engage the folded fabrics and to advance them on the needle.

The rollers 60 and 6| may be driven in synchronism with the operation of the wheels 21 and 28, by means of the following mechanism:

A drum 10 mounted on the shaft 23 for rotation therewith, vthe purpose and function of which will soon be described in detail, is provided with a gear 19 fixed thereto for rotation therewith. The gear 19 is adapted to mesh with an idler pinion 88 rotatably mounted on a shaft 80a (see Fig. 6) which in turn is adapted to mesh with a gear 8| mounted on the shaft 82 which carries the lower tension roller 6|. The upper roller 68 is mounted on the shaft 84 upon which there is also mounted a gear 83 in mesh with the gear 8|. The shafts 88a, 82 and 84 may be journalled in aportion of the frame 22. If desired, adjustment means 85 may be provided in cooperation with the upper roller 80 in order to adjust the tension between the rollers 68 and 6|. The rolle-rs 68 and 8| may be rotated at a speed slightly greater than that of the rotation of the wheels 21 and 28 in order to pull away the congested folds 53.

In sewing together a necktiefabric and a tie lining in accordance with our invention, it is desirable that the folded tie fabric be superimposed on the unfolded tie lining in definite relationship with respect to the ultimate line of stitching. We have therefore provided the following mechanism for assuring proper alignment and positioning of the lining with respect'to the fabric, and to such ultimate line of stitching.

As shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 8 to 10, there is provided a drum 1|), mounted on the shaft L23 for rotation "therewith,'and provided with a pair of cammed grooves H circumferentially and symmetrically disposed in therim thereof. Adapted to operate in said cammed grooves 1| are a pair of rollers 12 `iournalled in a pair of guide plates 13 which are slidably mounted in slotted apertures 14 of the bed plate 16, 'by means of the pins 15 fixed to and projecting downwardly from the underside of the plates 13. The roller shafts 12a are designed to operate in the slots 14a, in a similar manner to lthat of the pins 15 and the slots 14. The bed plate 16 is adapted for use in supporting the tie fabric and lining as they are fed to the wheels 21 and 28 to be folded. The drum is driven from the main shaft by means of the sprocket wheels 24 and 25 and the' chain 26, as hereinbefore described. It is thus seen that when the shaft 28 is rotated, the drum will also rotate to cause the rollers 12 to slidably separate and bring together the plates 13 in conformity with the grooves 1|.

In Fig. 3 of the drawings we have shown a development View of the drum illustrating the predetermined positioning of the cammed grooves 1| which are designed to actuate the rollers 12 operating therein to slidably move the guide plates 13 in conformity with the contour of the longitudinal edges of a tie lining of predetermined shape. It is understood, of course, that the grooves 1| may be designed to accommodate any'other desired shape of tie lining.

' The apparatus for feeding the tie fabric and the lining to our sewing apparatus will now be described:

The rocker arm 35 carrying the upper wheel 28 is rst pivotally raised from its normal position, as shown in Fig. 2, in the direction of the arrow C. A portion 16a of the bed plate 1B which is pivotally mounted on a pivot 11, is moved outwardly in .the direction of the arrow D (see Fig. 1) in order to permit the proper positioning of the tie lining T between the plates 13. After the lining has been properly positioned on the bed plate 18, the portion 16a is then swung back into the position over the lining as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings. Next, the tie fabric F is folded on its longitudinal axis and the free meeting edges thereof are lined up with respectto an adjustable gauge member 18 mounted on the plate portion 16a. In this manner the tie lining will always be in proper position with respect to the folded tie fabric so that the ultimate line of stitching will be properly positioned.

When the tie fabric and lining are properly positioned and in readiness for gathering or folding, the rocker arm 35 is again swungdown into its normal position, as shown in Fig. 2, and may be retained in such position by its own weight,

as previously explained. Power is then applied to drive the mainshaft 28, which starts the rotation of the wheels 21 and 28 to cause the assembled tie fabric and lining to be gathered up into folds and spitted on the needle 42, as hereinbefore described.

In Figs. 14 and 15 we have shown a modified form of gauge mechanism which may be used in place of the gauge member 18, and which is also adapted to fold the tie fabric F on its longitudinal axis as it is being fed through the wheels 21 and 28. There is provided a substantiallym U-shaped member 81 having flanged ends 81a which are fixed to a tapered portion 1Gb of the bed plate 18, and forming a looped portion, as

shown in Fig. 15, in which there is adapted to be received the folded tie fabric F. The member 81 is so designed that as the tie fabric is fed between the wheels 21 and 28 it will automatically become folded on its longitudinal axis. The member 81 is positioned similarly to the gauge member 18 so that the folded tie fabric will be superimposed on the lining in predetermined relation to an ultimate line of stitching.

In Fig. 16 we have shown a modified form of mechanism designed to gatherthe assembled tie fabric and lining into folds 53. Instead of the wheels 21 and 28, there is provided a pair of continuous belts 88 and 89 having teeth 88a and 89a similar to the teeth 21a and 28a and adapted to mesh in the same manner. The belts 88 and 88 are arranged to travel in a triangular path with the bases of the triangles in adjacent relationship, as shown, in order to provide a larger contact area with the assembled folded tie fabric and -ticles, the combination of means lining astheyare being fed on to the needle 42. The teeth 88a and 89a are provided with grooved recesses similar to the grooves I and 52 in order to furnish clearance for the needle 42. In this form of construction it is noted that the needle f rollers 9| and to be driven'by the shaft 29.

In Fig. 1'7 we have illustrated still another form of construction for gathering the assembled tie fabric and lining into folds and in which the belt -88 and teeth 88a are employed for the lower member, but in which an intermittent plunger device 92 is provided in place of the wheel 28 or the belt 89. The plunger member comprises a frame'93 provided with an aperture 94 in which the necktie materials into folds. said last named means comprising a pair of intermeshing toothed members for crimping the materials on both sides of a median plane and which are mounted -for separation transversely to the median plane,

a needle, a needle holder, each tooth of said "toothed members being provided with e. notch there is designed to operate a vcam 95 Xed to the v shaft 29. Extending downwardly from the frame 93 is a plunger member 86 having an end tooth -portion 98a thereof adapted to be received betweenthe teeth 88a. The cam 95 is so designed that when the shaft 29 is rotated, the frame 93 will vreciprocate in an intermittent vertical path and is so synchronized that the tooth portion 96a on its downward stroke will always strike between the teeth 88a to cause the assembled fabrics to be gathered and folded, `just before being received on the needle 42, as shown in the drawing. The tooth 86a is provided with a notch similar to the groove 52 in the wheel 28 to permit the free insertion of the needle 42 therethrough. Adjustable guiding means 88 may be provided to guide the movement of the plunger device 92 as it advances the belt 88.

It will now be seen that in operation the present machine gathers or crimps the material in a manner forming crimps, gathers or folds which extend across a median plane and that the pair of intermeshing toothed members crimp the materlal on both sides of a median plane. The toothed members are mounted for separation transversely to the median plane after the piercing is completed. This permits the pivotall swinging of the piercing needle carrying the gathered or crimped tie fabric from its operative position to a position where the needle is threaded and Where the assembled tie fabric and lining may be pulled oif the needle. This swinging movement of the needle takes'place in .a Plane substantially parallel to the median plane and is brought to a position entirely free of the toothed crimping members where the assembled tie may be pulled off the needle with the requisite care.

It will thus be seen that there is provided a device in which the several objects of this invention are achieved, and which is well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus'described our invention, we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

' 1. In an apparatus of the character describedadapted to sew necktie materials adapted to freely receive therein a portion of said needle. said crimping means being so constructed and arranged with respect to said needle whereby the said folds are pierced by and received on the needle and means for mounting said needle holder for pivotal movement of the needle in a plane substantially parallel to the median plane whereby said needle may be moved laterally away from its operative position to permit the removal of the crimped necktie material from the needle.

2. In an apparatus of the character described for sewing neckties comprising a lining and a 'tie fabric, the combination of means for positioning said lining in definite relationship to a predetermined line of stitching, means for superimposing said tie fabric on said lining with respect to said line of stitching, a non-reciprocating needle, a needle holder for said needle. means for crimping said aligned lining and fabric into folds, said crimping means comprising a pair of intermeshng toothed members for crimping the materials on both sides of a median plane and lwhich are mounted for separation transversely to the median plane being so constructed and arranged with respect to said needle whereby the said folds are progressively pierced by and received on the needle and means for mounting said needle holder for pivotal movement of the needle in a plane substantially parallel to the median plane whereby said needle may be moved laterally away from its operative position to permit the removal of the crimped necktie material from the needle.

3. In an apparatus for stitching a longitudinally folded necktie fabric with a loose stitch so that the finished necktie may be stretched longitudinally without breaking the stitch, the combination of a needle holder, a support therefor, a needle held at one endv thereof by said needle holder, means for supporting said longitudinally folded necktie fabric with one end thereof adjacent the free end of said needle, means cooperating with said tie fabric supporting means for successively crimping portions of the folded tie fabric into folds arranged transversely ofthe length of said folded fabric, said last named means comprising a pair of intermeshing toothed members for crimping the materials on both sides of a median plane and which are mounted for separation transversely to the median plane and for causing said transverse folds to be spitted on said needle, and means for maintaining said needle against axial movement during such crimping and spitting operation, and means for mounting said needle holder for pivotal movement of the needle in a plane substantially parallel to the median plane whereby said needle may be moved laterally away from its operative position to permit the removal-of the crimped-necktie material from the needle when said pair of toothed members are or similar arfor crimping separated.

4. In an apparatus for stitching a longitudinally folded necktie fabric with a loose stitch so that the finished necktie may be stretched longitudinally without breaking the stitch, the combination of a needle holder, a support therelterials on both sides of for, a needle held at one end thereof by said needle holder, means for supporting said lohgitudinally folded necktie fabric with one end thereof adjacent the free end of said needle, means cooperating with said tie fabric supporting means for successively crimping portions of the folded tie fabric into folds arranged transversely of the length of said folded fabric, said last named means comprising a pair of intermeshing toothed members for crimping the maa median plane and which are mounted for separation transversely to the median plane and so arranged as to force said transverse folds to be spitted on said needle, means on said tie fabric support for guiding said longitudinally folded fabric toward said crimping means and in proper alignment with respect to the ultimate line of stitching, and means fpr maintaining said needle against axial movement during such crimping and spitting operation, and means for mounting said needle holder for pivotal movement of the needle in a plane substantially parallel to the median plane whereby said needle may be moved laterally away from its operative position to permit the removal of the crimped necktie material from the needle when said pair of tooth members are separated.

5. In an apparatus for stitching a longitudinally folded necktie fabric with a loose stitch so that the nished necktie may be stretched longitudinally without breaking thestitch, the combination of a needle holder, a support therefor, a needle held at one end thereof by said needle holder, means for supporting said longimeshing toothed members for crimping the materials on both sides of a median plane and which are mounted for separation transversely to the median' plane and so arranged as to force said transverse folds to be spitted on said needle.

respect to the ultimate line means on said tie fabric support for guiding said longitudinally folded fabric toward said crimping meansand in proper alignment with of stitching, means cooperating with said tie fabric supporting means for guiding an unfolded lining toward said crimping means so, that it will be in superimposed relationship with respect to said longitudinally folded fabric and to said ultimate line of stitching and so that `said lining will be simultaneously crimped and spitted on said needle with said fabric, and means for mounting said needle holder for pivotal movement of the needle in a plane substantially parallel to the median plane whereby said needle may be moved laterally away from its operative position to permit the removal of the crimped necktie material from the needle when said pair of tooth members are separated.

RUDOLF' NAFTALI..

VALENTINE NAF'IALI.

HENRY .NAF'IALL fabric with one end' 

